Tuesday, December 13, 2016

lace & prints : resort 2015

I have to admit, Resort 2015 was one of the most exciting Resort seasons I've seen in a long time. There were new designers showing their debut Resort collection, luxury houses jet-setting across the world to exotic locations, and ateliers showcasing a change in design direction, exploring new aesthetics and playing around with different types of ready-to-wear. The collections were of course, marvelous and I was so obsessed over so many of them! This seasons offerings were wide for Resort, from light summer wear to exquisite winter cur coats and essentials for the luxury jet-setter to seasonal wardrobe updates for the modern city girl.  "Resort means nothing. Who buys clothes exclusively for going to a resort?" so said Oscar de la Renta at his Resort 2015 presentation. Who indeed? There are only a rarefied few who buys four to five-figure luxury wear just to travel around the world, and for most buying Resort, it's simply just to keep their wardrobe afresh with the latest ready-to-wear. Out of the countless collections, here are some of the most stunning ones, offering a myriad of styles from sleek city chic to red carpet glamour to sophisticated street style prints.
HOUSE OF HOLLAND : Loud colours with even louder prints was the core of Henry Holland's collection for Resort 2015. In a tribute to Diana Vreeland's famous quote "I've never met a leopard print I didn't like.", Holland piled the collection with only the boldest animal prints : leopard, zebra and python set in an insane mix of deep blue, neon green, fuchsia, acid orange and even "Vreeland red". The muse was a devil-may-care seventies girl, all decked out in the brightest of iridescent fabrics in the form of : a miniskirt that could be zipped off "in case you didn't think the skirt was short enough,", cameo swimsuits and a "My Pussy, My Rules" vest as well as shrimp and burger keychains and acrylic purses. Take notes, this is how to make a statement without ever being trashy.
TORY BURCH : While most print-focused collection was loud and over-the-top, Tory Burch Resort 2015 wasn't. The clothes were extremely wearable, with a familiar silhouettes and a very inviting sense of ease. Where Burch lacked in supposed grandness she made up with specialness in the fabrics : lacquered guipere lace, nubuck suede and laser-cut cotton; creating pieces with the perfect mix of simplicity and romance.
VERSACE : Versace has always been about sexy, but Donatella Versace decided to trade the usual slinky silhouettes for a more boxy look for Resort. Inspired by the swinging '60s, the collection featured A-line skirts, suits, oversized coats and parkas in shimmering silk printed with copious amounts of striking geometric prints. The Medusa and the signature Greek key were mainstays for Versace; but debut prints like polka dots, flags as well as glossy python and harlequin motifs added a touch of whimsy to the dazzling collection. While the shoe offerings like gladiator heels and peep-toe-boots were meant for daywear or nightwear, the clothes {coats, frocks, suits} were meant for day-to-nightwear.

Versace clearly had the on-the-go muse in mind because believe it or not there was a lilac printed silk and cotton hoodie designed just for hitting the gym. But eveningwear was what Versace was made to create, and this clearly showed in the collection because all the evening offerings were to say the least absolutely stunning. Swarovski crystals and tulle adorned the hems of one cocktail number, while a body-con dress was worked into exquisite knit. And the finale : a black silk cady off-shoulder gown, finished with a thigh-high slit {cue Angelina Jolie} lined with zippers encrusted with bands of shimmering rhinestones. Is there any part of this collection that isn't to-die-for?
JC DE CASTELBAJAC : While I've never been a fan of Castelbajac , Resort 2015 really made me sit up and notice his works. For Resort, he was inspired by painting by artists like Henri Matisse and Jean Cocteau, and decided to put his own spin on the luxurious elegance of the French Riviera. And gone away were the cliche Breton stripes and retro pieces that came with the South of France, instead Castelbajac created an extremely wearable wardrobe, infusing quirkiness and colour into a delightful mix of classic and casual pieces. The sportswear influenced ready-to-wear were injected with cheerful vibrant hues {think splashes seashore blue, olive, bright red, citrus orange and fuchsia} on muted navy and off-white fabrics while trompe l'oeil prints, 3D shoulder details embroidered to resemble olive birds, whimsical parasol patterns and basket weave cutouts made the collection pared-down yet luxurious.

BALMAIN : A trip to Los Angeles gave all the inspiration Olivier Rousteing needed for Resort 2015."They embrace fashion, not like in Paris, where they're in fashion, so they run away from it." explained Rousteing on the people of L.A. Combining bold graphics with a seventies vibe, the collection was everything Balmain and more. Bright contrasting colours set against strips of black was Rousteing's idea of fluidity, and he brought sexy back with body-con yet discreet silhouettes Balmain has come to be known for.  “There’s something boho, kind of gypsy about it. A bit seventies, a bit nineties." Inspired by the Native American heritage, clothes were beaded into tribal motifs and arrow pattern stitched into knits, while the trophy item was the poncho, the only outerwear chic enough for Balmain's free-spirited muse.
ELIE SAAB : Elie Saab has always been known for his luxurious eveningwear that frequently graces top red carpet all around the world.While gowns would still be the essence of Elie Saab, he turned his attention more to ready-to-wear for Resort 2015. Intricate patterns and details usually available only with a five figure dress are being sewn onto casual crepe blouses peplum jackets and suits. Perfect for the couture loving girl on the go.

Which collection was your favourite?

No comments:

Post a Comment