marchesas spring gypsy princess.

Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig began their label Marchesa a decade ago on a little street in London, and what a long way they've come : from donning red-carpet A-listers with their ethereal gowns, to being in the wardrobes of many a princess around the world, they've become synonymous with their brand of exquisite and otherworldly glamour, and they have their well-heeled clientele to prove it. They've always been a fixture in the New York fashion scene, but this season the designers decided to celebrate their 10th anniversary homecoming in the banquet halls of Whitehall, a majestic location set none other than in the centre of all things British, London.

If you come to Britain, do it like the Brits. And so for Spring 2015 they did, taking however a different take on British royalty less modern and more '70s, less gilded and more Woodstock. A "rock-'n'-roll fantasia" as Tim Blanks called it, the collection was opened by Georgia May Jagger, looking every inch the flower-child as she sauntered down the runway in a flowy V-shaped tiered white tulle and lace number.  “She really embodies the spirit of the new collection,” said Chapman. “It’s a little bit gypsy, a little bit Woodstock and a little bit rock ’n’ roll.” As the show went on, it looked as if all the pieces were made for goddesses : there was the gypsy-hippie lass in her bohemian guipere gowns, the rock-chick in her lace trousers and crop top with hair tousled and eyes smoked to perfection, as well as the cultured romantic adorned with polished silhouettes of billowing organza sleeves and gold flower embroideries. 

Though different, the muses all had this innate sense of wonder and femininity {as like their clients}, and the designers celebrated this with the finale looks : a fête of frocks dotted with dainty flowers and trailing vines, fringed with gold and black silk tiers, dipped in bright magenta details, and a grand climatic look of an ethereal flower queen : a picture of cascading powder blue tulle, bodice strewn with life-sized flowers and topped off with a lush pastel flower crown. 

“This was always very much the dream.” —Georgina Chapman

Marchesa's whimsical approach to spring couture truly indulged every girl's inner Cinderella {tomboy or not}, and while it'd be snapped up fast by silver screen starlets for awards season, we can at least dream, even for a moment, of being Marchesa's muse and wearing those gorgeous dresses, transported into a fantasia where fashion fairy tales really do come true.

Images from one, two

dreaming of the marchesa princess.

I swear when I saw the first look of Marchesa's Fall 2014 collection, I completely forgot all about the other collections I had been raving about and could only be stare wide-eyed at the gold {or fiery copper according to Style} and white gown that was the first look. I have always looked forward to their show, but this time I was utterly blown away by the sheer grandeur of it. And after a quick glance at the full show, I can only say that it's by far the most beautiful collection of New York Fashion Week : the pure opulence of each look made the show absulutely unforgettable and the entire time I was just dreaming about what it would be like wearing these gorgeous creations, making an entrance in a grand soirée like a princess....

Back to the collection, this season had similar elements from the Spring 2014 collection : a more relaxed, disheveled take on the gowns, yet still maintaining the ethereal, elegant and effortless sexy that is signature to Marchesa. What was different however was a wider color palette, the use of fur and feathers, and a completely new source of inspiration : the Scottish Highlands, a change from the usual Los Angeles. The result? A whimsical, romantic, earthy collection full of jewel toned frocks, romantic florals and sexy sheer fabrics. The collection was also a lot more wearable thanks to the notable absence of the extravagant proportions and the piles of chiffon and tulle, as well as the wider styles of gowns which ranged from off-shoulder to strapless, long-sleeved to turtleneck. 

Inspired by “visions of billowing bonfires sweeping through the Scottish Highlands,” fiery copper tones appeared in a brilliant array of gold, saffron, burnt orange, and burgundy, while smoke was evoked in deep shades of teal and gray. Delicate gold thread work added a touch of glamour and shine to the gowns in darker shades while metallic fabrics changed the gowns from stunning to positively perfect. Embellishments and pleating also provided a little trompe l'oeil, making the gowns appear like they had jewels sewn into the skirts. Fur and feathers also made a debut on the Marchesa runway, and it really gave the looks a regal finishing touch. Feathers were used to make an argyle sweater, while fur became an accessory : thrown around the neck or held like a bag in one hand. Given that this is a Fall collection, feathers and fur were just the right mix of comfort and style.

But any Marchesa collection would not be complete without lace florals and sheer fabrics. Romantic lace florals gave the collection a sense of girlishness amidst the forest-inspired tones, while the peekaboo fabrics added a dose of understated sexiness. I can't help but be reminded of the glorious Victorian era with the ruffles and full hoop skirts, I mean it's not all the time when a collection offers a hint of historical grandeur.

Exquisite embroidery, lavish fabrics and luxurious lace - what more can someone ask from Marchesa? With the Oscars coming up and Marchesa's reputation for being a celebrity favourite, these to-die-for gowns would definitely make an entrance on a starlet or two. We can only watch and wish for the day where we can finally don such a stunning collection, whether is it as an Oscar nominee, dazzling socialite or a princess....

What do you think of the collection?